United States

PAPER CANOE MARIA THERESA. - THE START. - THE DESCENT OF THE HUDSON RIVER. - CROSSING THE UPPER BAY OF NEW YORK. - PASSAGE OF THE KILLS. - RARITAN RIVER - THE CANAL ROUTE FROM NEW BRUNSWICK TO THE DELAWARE RIVER. - FROM BORDENTOWN TO PHILADELPHIA.

DESCENT OF DELAWARE RIVER. - MY FIRST CAMP. - BOMBAY HOOK. - MURDERKILL CREEK. - A STORM IN DELAWARE BAY. - CAPSIZING OF THE CANOE. - A SWIM FOR LIFE. - THE PERSIMMON GROVE. - WILLOW GROVE INN. - THE LIGHTS OF CAPES MAY AND HENLOPEN.

THE PORTAGE TO LOVE CREEK. - THE DELAWARE WHIPPINGPOST. - REHOBOTH AND INDIAN RIVER BAYS. - A PORTAGE TO LITTLE ASSAWAMAN BAY. - ISLE OF WIGHT BAY. - WINCHESTER PLANTATION. - CHINCOTEAGUE. - WATCHAPREAGUE INLET. - COBB'S ISLAND. - CHERRYSTONE. - ARRIVAL AT NORFOLK. - THE "LANDMARK'S" ENTERPRISE.

THE ELIZABETH RIVER. - THE CANAL. - NORTH LANDING RIVER. - CURRITUCK SOUND. - ROANOKE ISLAND. - VISIT TO BODY ISLAND LIGHT-HOUSE. - A ROMANCE OF HISTORY. - PAMPLICO SOUND. - THE PAPER CANOE ARRIVES AT CAPE HATTERAS.

CAPE HATTERAS LIGHT. - HABITS OF BIRDS. - STORM AT HATTERAS INLET - MILES OF WRECKS. - THE YACHT JULIA SEARCHING FOR THE PAPER CANOE. - CHASED BY PORPOISES. - MARSH TACKIES. - OCRACOKE INLET. - A GRAVE-YARD BEING SWALLOWED UP BY THE SEA. - CORE SOUND. - THREE WEDDINGS AT HUNTING QUARTERS. - MOREHEAD CITY. - NEWBERN. - SWANSBORO. - A PEA-NUT PLANTATION. - THE ROUTE TO CAPE FEAR.

A PORTAGE TO LAKE WACCAMAW. - THE SUBMERGED SWAMPS. - NIGHT AT A TURPENTINE DISTILLER - A DISMAL WILDERNESS. - OWLS AND MISTLETOE. - CRACKERS AND NEGROES. - ACROSS THE SOUTH CAROLINA LINE. - A CRACKER'S IDEA OF HOSPITALITY. - POT BLUFF. - PEEDEE RIVER. - GEORGETOWN. - WINYAH BAY. - THE RICE PLANTATIONS OF THE SANTEE RIVERS. - A NIGHT WITH THE SANTEE NEGROES. - ARRIVAL AT CHARLESTON.

THE INTERIOR WATER ROUTE TO JEHOSSEE ISLAND. - GOVERNOR AIKEN'S MODEL RICE PLANTATION. - LOST IN THE HORNS. - ST. HELENA SOUND. - LOST IN THE NIGHT. - THE PHANTOM SHIP. - A FINLANDER'S WELCOME. - A NIGHT ON THE EMPEROR S OLD YACHT. - THE PHOSPHATE MINES. - COOSAW AND BROAD RIVERS. - PORT ROYAL SOUND AND CALIBOQUE SOUND. - CUFFY 'S HOME. - ARRIVAL IN GEORGIA. - RECEPTIONS AT GREENWICH SHOOTING-PARK.

One of my best Indian days was that on which Colonel Sir Umar Hayat Khan took us out a-hawking. Sir Umar is himself something of a hawk - an impressive figure in his great turban with long streamers, his keen aquiline features and blackest of hair. All sport comes naturally to him, whether hunting or shooting, pig-sticking, coursing or falconry; and the Great War found him with a sportsman's eagerness to rush into the fray, where he distinguished himself notably.

In spite of Kyoto's eight hundred temples I could not get any but a materialistic concept of its inhabitants; and elsewhere this impression was emphasised. A stranger cannot, of course, know; he can but record his feelings, without claiming any authority for them. But I am sure I was never in a country where I perceived fewer indications of any spiritual life. Every one is busy; every one seems to be happy or at any rate not discontented; every one chatters and laughs and is, one feels, a fatalist. Sufficient unto the day!

In Chicago the weather was wet and cold, and it was not until after I had left that I learned of the presence there of certain literary collections which I may now perhaps never see. But I spent much time in the Museum, where there is one of the finest Hobbemas in the world, and where two such different creative artists as Claude Monet and Josiah Wedgwood are especially honoured.